A Food Tour of Emilia-Romagna

Last updated on November 12, 2021

Like a string of pearls across the verdant landscape of Emilia-Romagna lie the gastronomic gems of Parma, Reggio-Emilia, Modena and Bologna. I was told the best food in Italy was here and I was not disappointed. The famed Italian cucina povera –  that which relies on meager ingredients to create spectacular results – is non-existent here. This is a wealthy region, rich in both its appetites and the arts. Bologna, the capital, ranks for highest quality of life in Italy, no small achievement in a land where la dolce vita is a national pastime.

Emilia-Romagna is home to some of the worlds’ most famous foods, including Prosciutto di Parma ham, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and Aceto Balsamico di Modena, the iconic vinegar  of Modena. These, and many other, products are regulated by Italian consortiums, which label them to ensure authenticity and quality. Methods and ingredients are strictly controlled; indeed, even the type of grass livestock eats is controlled for its milk or meat to be used as an ingredient. Understanding labels can help consumers appreciate Italian dedication to tradition, as well as the price of many products. Of the approximately 200 certified Italian products, more than 40 are produced in Emilia-Romagna. (see insert, below)

Parma

Shops along the cobbled streets prominently display rosy Prosciutto di Parma and wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano like souvenirs. Fanned out on a tagliere (cutting board), these can make a meal, but do not miss the Piatti della Tradizione (traditional dishes) that Parma does best, such Agnoli en brodo (ravioli in broth), and Tortelli d’erbetta. This fresh egg pasta is filled with breadcrumbs, chard, cheese and nutmeg, as per Parma tradition, a departure from the meat version served in Piacenza, an hour away. This variation demonstrates the hyper-regionality of true Italian cuisine.

Prosciutto di Parma PDO is widely regarded as one of the worlds’ best hams, and is recognized by the Parma crown on its label. It is simply produced from the hind leg of certain heritage pig breeds, with only a small amount of Mediterranean sea salt. Air-cured in the distinct clime of the Parma region, this meat is not brined or smoked, nor does it contain additives or other preservatives. Prosciutto di Parma cannot be compared with processed cold cuts, like those made in the United States.

Other famed pork products from this region include Culatello di Zibello, made from the loin, and Spalla di San Secondo, from the shoulder. Strict guidelines must be followed to obtain PDO status. For example, Culatello di Zibello is aged in the bladder of a hog or cow. (Strange food fact, but true.)

Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO is big business; annually, 18 percent of Italy’s milk is used to produce more than 3.6 million cheese wheels. It is made, in accordance with age-old tradition, from the unpasteurized morning milk of grass-fed cows, which is mixed with skimmed milk from the previous evening. The only other ingredient is Mediterranean sea salt. According to Italian law, production is limited to specific locales in Emilia-Romagna and Mantua, Lombardy.

Parmigiano-Reggiano should not be confused with generic parmesan cheese which often masquerades as its equivalent, especially in the United States. Generic brands contain additives, such as non-dairy and anti-caking agents, and at least one brand has been brought to court for containing no parmigiana-type cheese at all. The authenticity of true Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO is indicated by markings on its rind, as regulated by the consortium. It is a singular joy to order a cocktail in Emilia-Romagna, and receive alongside a plate heaped with chiseled chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Modena

Due east from Parma is Modena, home to Prosciutto di Modena, Aceto Balsamico di Modena, and a host of distinctive stuffed pastas. The Modena name is on some of the worlds most famous foods.

Prosciutto di Modena PDO is made with meat from certain pig breeds, then aged at specific altitudes, for a longer time than its counterpart in Parma. It is served raw, or crudo, as opposed to cooked, cotto, and can be recognized by the Pm fire-brand on its label.

Modena is also where the iconic Aceto Balsamico di Modena is produced. Bittersweet and balanced, this renowned condiment can enhance salads, cheeses, meats and fruit. In fact, simply calling it vinegar is akin to describing Ragù as mere spaghetti sauce. As per ancient Roman methods, Aceto Balsamico is made from the fermented must (the juice and crushed seeds, stems and skin) of specific grapes, primarily the Trebbiano variety. Aged in wooden barrels for a minimum of 12 years for Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Affinato PDO, to at least 25 for Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena Extra Vecchio PDO (extra old). There is also a PGI balsamic Invecchiato (aged) which abides by less-stringent regulations, requiring only 3 years of aging. Strict packaging requirement must be followed, assuring type and proof of origin. Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (BVM) is an inexpensive imitation of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (TBV). In Italy, acronyms count for a lot.

Modena’s contribution to Italian pasta is the trilogy of tortelli, tortelloni and tortellini. The different names refer to decreasing sizes of this stuffed, half-moon shaped pasta. Tortellini (the smallest) is generally served en brodo, in broth, drizzled with Aceto Balsamico and sprinkled with Parmigiana Reggiano.

Adventurous and acclaimed, three Michelin star Osteria Francescana can also be found in Modena. It has repeatedly been named one of the worlds’ best restaurants. While this is no small feat, remember this is Italy, and you also really can’t go wrong at the corner trattoria.

Bologna

Italy offers amazing sites from Matera to Milan, but if it’s the best food you seek, an Italian will steer you to Bologna. The historic capital of Emilia Romagna is both ancient and modern; a place where you wend your way down endless colonnaded sidewalks, amongst tables set for dining al fresco. Food is everywhere.

The cuisine here is traditional; should you order Ragù Bolognese with spaghetti you may risk tussling with a butcher knife-wielding chef. (My husband repeatedly made this rookie mistake). Instead, the long ribbons of fresh egg pasta, tagliatelle, are perfect for holding the classic ragù, a hearty sauce of minced meat, soffrito and tomato sauce. It is the signature dish of Bologna, and there is no messing with perfection.

Another specialty is Mortadella di Bologna, a distinctivesausage traditionally ground with a mortar, hence the name. Mortadella contains very specific ratios of meat and fat, as well as myrtle berries, black pepper, nutmeg, pistachios, and sometimes green olives. No comparison can be made between this delicacy and American bologna. Mortadella is an IGP product, so its origins are verified; it can be produced in all of Emilia Romagna.

It’s no wonder that Bologna is called La Grassa, which literally means the fat. Don’t be put off by this moniker as it refers, not to fat content, but to the wide array and bounty of delicious food Bologna offers.

I recently read that the flavors and aromas of traditional cuisine are deeply ingrained in the Italian psyche. This may account, in part, for the high standards for food the country takes as given. As an American, I am always overwhelmed by the freshness and quality of their hyper-regional diet.  Arriving for this trip on the cusp of artichoke and asparagus season, I often found these vegetables featured on a menu. However, when I tried to order them, I got a rueful shake of the head. Because they were slightly past prime, they could no longer be served. In America we expect the foods we want to eat, which are not always aligned with the seasonal bounty offered up by the Earth. What a difference this makes in a meal.

Italian Food & Wine Certifications

Many Italian products have protected status. This is largely to combat the worldwide problem of food forgery. The U.S. is one of the worst offenders, especially when it comes to the sale of imitation Italian products. The EU’s food and wine certification system helps combat these misconceptions; production of specialty products are managed by Italian consortiums, and protected by law.

Italian Food Certifications are:

DOP or PDO – Denominazione di Origine Protetta, or Protected Designation of Origin. This strict label regulates both traditional production methods and packaging, as well as protecting origin. Example: Parmigiano Reggiano.

IGP – Identificazione Geografica Protetta, or Protected Geographical Indication. This label links a product to a specific region, with at least one phase of production occurring there. Less stringent than DOP, but still a respected certification. Example: Mortadella Bologna.

STG – Specialità Tradizionale Garantita, or Traditional Specialities Guaranteed. This certification ensures quality standards, as well as traditional production methods. Example: Pizza Napolitana.

Italian Wine Certifications:

DOGC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, or Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin.  This is the strictest wine certification; yield must undergo evaluation and  tasting, with quantities capped. Example: Albana.di Romagna.

DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata, or Controlled Denomination of Origin. More common and less stringent than DOCG, this label guarantees quality, authenticity, and origin. DOC wines can incorporate grape blends. Example: certain Lambruscos.

IGT – Indicazione geografica tipica, or Typical Geographical Indication. Indication of geographical region; this label was created for Super Tuscan wine. Example: all varieties of Lambrusco in the Emilia-Romagna region are certified under the IGT label.

VdT – Vino da Tavola, or – quite simply – table wine. Indicates everyday drinking wine, but does not guarantee high quality. No vintage information is allowed on this label.

RECIPES

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Ragù alla Bolognese

This iconic meat sauce is traditionally served over fresh egg tagliatelle, which can be made from scratch or purchased fresh from a specialty store. Note: ground beef is never used in Italian ragù. While most recipes call for minced meat, it is traditional for a whole piece of beef to be hand chopped with a knife. The recommended cut is thin flank or skirt steak.

Course Main Course

Cuisine Italian

Keyword pasta, bolognese, tagliatelle

Ingredients

• 1 lb. fresh tagliatelle pasta
• 3/4 lb. minced beef
• 1/3 lb. unsmoked pancetta - finely minced optional
• 1 medium carrot finely chopped
• 1 medium stalk celery finely chopped
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 1/4 cup Italian tomato paste
• 1/2 cup white wine white is traditional, but some cooks prefer red
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• Olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

• 1 - In a heavy bottomed or cast iron pot, heat olive oil until shimmering. If using pancetta, gently fry pancetta until it starts to release its fat. Do not burn.
• 2 - Add the chopped sofritto (carrots, celery and onion) and cook until onions are transparent, stirring occasionally.
• 3 - Add beef and cook until lightly browned.
• 4 - Add tomato paste and wine and mix well.
• 5 - Gradually add milk, stirring until completely absorbed.
• 6 - Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. (If necessary, add more milk to maintain consistency.)
• 7 - Serve over tagiatelle, cooked al dente. (A small amount of butter can be tossed into the pasta prior to adding the ragù.)
• 8 - Pass Parmagiano-regggiano to grate.

Notes

(adapted from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina recipe)

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Vegan Ragù alla Bolognese

While untraditional, the omission of meat and inclusion of mushrooms can provide the savory flavor that defines a great ragù. Mushrooms, like meat, contain high levels of the amino acid, glutamate, which give this dish its’ umami mouthfeel. Since porcini mushrooms are an acceptable inclusion to the traditional meat recipe by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, this recipe stays true to the spirit of Italian cuisine.

Course Main Course

Cuisine Italian

Keyword bolognese, italian, pasta, plant based, recipe, vegan, vegetarian

Author Michele Jacobson, CN

Ingredients

• 12 oz. mixed mushrooms mainly porcini, coarsely chopped
• 1/3 oz. dried porcini mushrooms soaked in 1/4 cup boiling water
• 1 medium carrot finely chopped
• 1 medium stalk celery finely chopped
• 1/2 cup finely chopped onion
• 6 oz. Italian tomato paste
• 1/2 cup white wine white is most traditional, although some people prefer red
• 1/2 cup non-dairy milk I.e.almond or soy (unflavored only)
• Olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

• 1 - In a heavy bottomed pot, heat a small amount of olive oil until shimmering.
• 2 - Add the chopped sofritto (carrots, celery and onion) and cook on medium-low heat until onions are transparent, about ten minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the fresh mushrooms and continue cooking until he vegetables are cooked down and the mushrooms have released their juices.
• 3 - Drain the reconstituted porcini mushrooms, reserving liquid. Finely chop mushrooms, and add to the pot. Stir.
• 4 - Add tomato paste, porcini liquid and wine.
• 5 - When all is incorporated, gradually add milk substitute, stirring until completely absorbed.
• 6 - Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and simmer for 1 to 2 hours.
• 7 - Serve over tagiatelle, cooked al dente.
• 8 - If desired, nutritional yeast sprinkled on top can take the place of parmigiano.

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Tortellini en brodo

This is the ultimate Italian comfort food, traditionally served at Christmas. There are many variations of tortellini en brodo, for both the pasta filling and the broth it is served in. Most traditional recipes call for a mixed-meat tortellini in capon or beef broth. Delicious vegetarian tortellini en brodo can also be made with cheese-stuffed tortellini in vegetable broth. Hand-making stuffed pasta is arduous work. Even in Italy, freshly-made tortellini is usually purchased at a pasta fresca (fresh pasta) establishment. Test out some varieties, and choose your favorite to serve in the broth. Fun food fact: according to Medieval rumor, the shape of tortellini portrays a woman’s naval!

Ingredients

• Chicken Broth
• Traditional brodo di cappone is made with a capon young rooster, which contains more fat than a regular chicken
• Broth ingredients:
• 1 capon cut in pieces
• Meat bones optional
• 2 carrots cut into large chunks
• 2 celery stalks cut into large chunks (leaves intact)
• 1 large onion quartered
• 2 cloves garlic peeled
• 4 quarts water
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Fresh meat tortellini
• Parmigiano-reggiano cheese for grating
• Balsamic vinegar for drizzling (optional)

Instructions

• 1 - Combine all broth ingredients in a large stock pot and set over medium-high heat. When the liquid comes to a boil, lower the light and allow to simmer, partially covered. Maintain simmer for duration of the cooking time, 1-2 hours. Periodically skim the broth. When done, remove meat, bones and vegetables and transfer to containers, then refrigerate. When the fat rises to the top and hardens, skim it off and discard.
• 2 - Cook tortellini according to directions. Do not overcook.
• 3 - Laden a serving of pasta into a bowl, and top with reheated broth.
• 4 - Grate cheese on top and drizzle with Balsamico, if desired.

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Brodo di verdure - Vegetable Broth

In an Italian kitchen, this broth is made from vegetable scraps: onions, carrots, zucchini, celery; anything that may have been used for cooking, except tomatoes. Use this approach, or start with whole vegetables. This is a basic recipe, you can add additional vegetables, as desired.

Ingredients

• 2 carrots cut into large chunks
• 2 celery stalks cut into large chunks (leaves intact)
• 1 large onion quartered
• 2 cloves garlic peeled
• 4 quarts water
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Fresh cheese tortellini
• Parmigiano-reggiano cheese for grating
• Balsamic vinegar for drizzling (optional)

Instructions

• 1 - Combine all ingredients in a large stock pot and bring to a boil. As soon as it boils, turn the heat down and allow to simmer, partially covered. Maintain simmer for duration of the cooking time, about 1 hour. Remove vegetables and season to taste.
• 2 - Cook cheese tortellini according to directions. Do not overcook.
• 3 - Laden a serving of pasta into a bowl, and top with reheated broth.
• 4 - Grate cheese on top and drizzle with Balsamico, if desired.

As published in Edible Orange County.